“First in, last out.” - Jack O’Neill, inventor of the wetsuit and so much more. I don’t think anyone doubted me when I said I would be there for his memorial paddle out. Santa Cruz now will forever be burned into my heart.
“You can’t explain it from the inside looking out, and you won’t understand it from the outside looking in.”
That’s the best quote to describe what I experienced, because honestly, it leaves me short for words on my own. Not that I don’t have a lot to say, but it’s not about me. It’s about being a part of something bigger than I will ever be. And I’d go again.
Thank you Santa Cruz, Thank you random single-serving-friends who loaned me your board to rest on, Thank you sharks for not showing up and thank you O’Neill, and thank you Jack.
Rest in Paradise Jack O’Neill. “Summer on the inside.”