Lower Trestles, arguably the greatest high performance wave in the United States, maybe the world.
If I could pay the bills shooting groms and the occasional pro’s in the line-ups’ of surf breaks world-wide, I would. I’d do it in a heart beat!!
I love surfing, it’s great. I’m pretty good too! But taking the photos in the water is a whole different thing entirely. I feel as though the difference is a simple community feeling. As a surfer of almost 16 years myself I have only had my photo taken a hand full of times. It’s quite a rare experience (short of being pro) and when I am in the water everyone responds to that fact. It’s magnetic! Everyone’s boosting, catching air, snapping and sending it as hard as they can every chance they get. I love it. It’s a collaboration not a competition and despite it usually costing me money out my own pocket to make pictures, it undoubtedly makes my day/life better.
Thank you all and see you out there,